Guitar Setup Tips - Re-stringing your acoustic guitar

Re-stringing your guitar is a task all guitar players will come across at some point - and its actually easier than some might think! Here's a basic rundown of how we do it - if you have any queries about re-stringing your own guitar just give us a call here at the shop!

Note: These instructions relate to most steel string acoustic guitars, but certain models will use different machine heads/bridges etc. If you're unsure about re-stringing your guitar, give us a call at the shop!

1. Before you start - make sure you have everything you'll need to change your strings. A new set of strings is the obvious one, but to make life easier, a couple of handy tools to have are a set of wire cutters to trim the ends of your new strings and a string winder to wind your new strings on quickly and easily (both pictured below). A guitar tuner is also essential.

2. Using your string winder, loosen off your old strings so they are no longer under tension. At this point if you think you won't remember how they are meant to go back on - change one string at a time so you can use the other strings as a guide. Using your wire cutters, cut the old strings in half around the 12th fret. Next, unwind the old strings from the machine heads. Then, using your wire cutters, gently lift the bridge pins out of the bridge in an upward motion. Be careful not to bend the pins or they will snap off. Once removed you are free to take the remaining bits of string out.

3. Now you are left with a stringless guitar! Grab your new pack of strings - each string should be labelled or colour coded so you know which is which. Remember - the 1st string is the thinnest one, and the 6th string is the thickest.

4. Unwrap your E 6th string (thickest) and unwind it. You'll notice that one end of the string has a metal ball on it. This is what holds the string in your bridge. Take this end and place it on the corresponding hole in your guitars bridge. Then place the bridge pin in the hole, with its slot facing toward the machine heads. Then thread the rest of the string straight up through the hole in your machine head.

5. Flatten your hand and place it upright under the string at the 12th fret. This will give you the proper amount of winds around your machine head. Too many and you decrease sustain, too little and your guitar will not hold tune. The gap from string to fretboard should be about a hand space, or around 10cm.

6. Guiding the string near where it goes through the hole in your machine head, begin to wind it on with your string winder. For guitars with 3-a-side machine heads (most acoustics - Maton, Taylor, Martin etc), your string should always go around the machine head from the inside to the outside of the headstock. In other words - to the left for the E6, A5 and D4 strings, and to the right for the G3, B2 and E1 strings. For guitars with 6-in-line machine heads (some Fenders etc) your string should always start on the inside and go to the left. If you're unsure of how this works - have a look at your strings before you change them as a guide. Your string windings should also always start at the hole in the machine head and work their way down.

7. Once you have wound the string to a point where it starts to make a 'note', grab your guitar tuner and tune it up. Be careful not to over tune the string or it'll snap under too much tension. Also be careful that the bridge pin does not pop out. You can hold your thumb over the pin whilst you tune to avoid this. Once you have all your new strings on and tuned up, carefully and gently stretch each one a little, then re-tune your guitar. This will help the strings settle in and hold tune better. Once you've done this, snip the ends of your new strings off and you're ready to rock once again!

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